I [heart] Moscow.

But before I get to that, I should probably say a few words about my time in Petersburg...

I spent Thursday through Sunday morning wandering my favorite Northern city, walking the streets, admiring the buildings that I had missed, and eating as many sweets treats as I could find. It was strange to back in a place so familiar while the country and the language were still feeling incredibly foreign. Nevertheless (and despite the longer than normal fight with jetlag which only ended yesterday), it was an amazing time. Laura and I spent two evenings in my friend Katya's new apartment, during which we were fed dinners, cookies, cakes, and the best green tea I have ever tasted. It was great to catch up with Katya and find out about how her life has changed during the past two years. I had forgotten not only about Russian hospitality, but also about the sense of responsibility that Russian visitors feel towards their guests--after seeing her, she proceeded to check in with me every few hours for the remainder of my time in Petersburg. Needless to say, I felt much more at ease after I saw her.

On Sunday morning, Laura and I boarded the SLOW train to Moscow, which was--as predicted--a good adventure. We arrived in the middle of Moscow and caught a gypsy taxi [my first and hopefully last ride in one] to our dormitory on the outskirts of Moscow. Since that point, we have been resting in the care of the Fulbright program.

So, I am now living in the dorm/apartment/common living space with the six kids on the Fulbright community service program, two returning Fulbright English TAs, and one Russian professor. The group of community service grantees is really great; the others are working on topics of public health [mostly dealing with AIDS], sex-trafficking, microfinancing, social work, and deaf studies. During this week, we are going around and meeting with NGOs that work on our topics and learning about their activities. Today we met with the Russian Social-Democratic Women's Congress, which was amazing. One of the women there was one of the first women in the Russian Duma. It was a very cool experience to hear all of them talk in Russian about their activities, goals, and their regional offices (they have one in Ekat!).

Yesterday I had my first experience in an American Embassy; it is crazy to me that a little American can exist right in the middle of a foreign country. We had briefings all day there, which were actually really useful. I found out from the cultural officer there that there is film festival in Moscow at the end of September that is featuring a famous documentary about domestic violence; I am thinking about returning to the city for that weekend...

which brings me to my next point: despite my continuing loyalty to Petersburg [note that I [heart] Moscow and don't love it], Moscow, at least in the summer, is much more beautiful than I remembered. I have been walking around, enjoying the scenery, the churches, the buildings, and the cosmopolitan feel of the city. The university that we are staying at is particularly beautiful, because--despite the fact that it is still in the city--it is cushioned with a forest of birch trees. It feels just like home :)

If anyone is still reading, I am impressed that you have made it through this long post. As a reward, here is the Russia fun-fact-of-the-day:

The mullet is IN in Petersburg, including the fullet [female mullet]. I might be sporting one myself before too long.

That's all for now. I'll probably wait to write again until I am in Ekaterinburg [I expect to arrive now on August 29]. Until then, take care!